Fazan
It wasn't the first time I've been egged. Heavens, no. There were many traditions at Oxford ranging from the touching to the terrible, and one of them did involve getting egg on your face, literally. During exam period Oxford students would be required to wear gowns and suits, but to 'garnish' the uniform you would traditionally give 3 carnations to someone sitting them also with whom you'd spent much of your time. In my case, it was my dear buddy Hamish Laing- a white one for your first exam, a red for your last exam and pink for all in between. Although not confirmed, I was told it dates back to the times when candidates would remove their white carnation while sitting the exam and place it in the ink for their quill to stop it dying; this would cause the flower to soak up the ink and so darken its petals, hence white to pink to red. That was the touching part; less touching was those wearing red carnations would be on their last day of exams and due for a pounding either at the bar, or by their friends on walking out - often by eggs.
Slovenia is the smallest country I'm passing through and comfortably the least populated with its dwellers spread sparsely across rolling green fields. In 2007 it became the first former communist country to join the Eurozone and in 2010 joined the OECD, a global 'friend request accepted' given to developed countries by other developed countries - think G8 meets Facebook. Although they enjoy the euro, it's not welcomed by everyone. Speaking to several locals, it appears that despite a decent economy, it is not a very strong one and far too service based. This last detail increases their volatility and sensitivity to recessions and booms and most feel they would have been better without it. They were hit hard by the recession in 2008 and do not have the tourism to pull them out like Austria above and Croatia below (25% of Croatia's economy is now tourism). The average stay of tourists in Slovenia is just 2 to 3 days as opposed to closer to 10 in Croatia, something everyone hopes will change soon. I have a feeling it just might - Ljublana was fast becoming a favourite of mine.
I hadn't been running in a few days - definitely time to change that.
With Teja's apartment situated more perfectly than if an Italian were living between a sunglasses shop and a cafe with outdoor seating, it was a matter of yards before I hit the cobbled path leading up the steep hill to the castle which sits magnificently in the exact centre of the city.
List of 10 signs a 21st century traveller never wants to see. Number 7: this.
In almost all reviews of this city, and that goes for most city guide books, it lists museums, theaters, restaurants etc.. as the best things to do in that city. I'd like to write my own travel guide book which says spend your first day walking around and respectfully observing and engaging people that live there. One of my favourite things and tips is to find a close to empty cafe or bar and stop by for a tea, from Long Island or otherwise. If you're polite enough, almost always the person working there will be delighted to chat about life in the city to pass the time. Don't overlook the fact that people like helping people. It's actually happens to be a fairly strong argument against Darwinism, but it also happens to be true. It sits uncomfortably with the principal of survival of the fittest but the fact is egoistic altruism is very real, a topic we can return to at a later date, and always worth bearing in mind in a new place.
4 Fasan
Like a fast hitting snooker player, I got some hot tips from Marko and set off back to my apartment, at least I would have done if I hadn't have come across a hoard of painted teenagers. I quickly discovered that this was the first day of school across Slovenia and, due to long standing tradition, it was customary to mark the Fazans with large F's all over their body and then crack an egg on their head. Fazan is the Slovenian word closest to the word fresher, but it has a slang connotation to a bird and so 2nd years flapping their 'wings' at first years and making clucking noises was common place. After asking a few lads what was happening, they seem to take enormous joy when I explained that this also happened at Oxford University, but when you finished. At this stage, I could see exactly where this was going and, dressed in running kit so fairly well prepared, I handed over my coffee and prepared to get smashed. Click here for the video.
I ran back along the river which runs through the middle of the city, but did an appalling job of avoiding sniggers and laughs so I thought in the name of self-respect I would take myself home to shower. In the afternoon I went on another long walk along the river listening to podcasts, an activity more and more I am becoming to just love. I was very worried indeed about spending so much time on my own on this trip as I'm not all that brilliant at it, but if I can walk somewhere interesting with a few Radio 4 programmes in my ear, I'm as happy as, well, a 2nd year at high school in Slovenia.